The old Ben Vuot wharf and the Hoa wharf today.

“Mom! Why is it called Ben Vuot?” The mother remained silent, not answering. Everyone else was silent too. Perhaps one of the people who had fallen at Ben Vuot, or perhaps the father of the young mother, the grandfather of the innocent child, lay beneath the river.

Old Ferry Terminal

The Thach Han River originates in the Truong Son mountain range in the west of Quang Tri province and flows into the East Sea through the Viet estuary. Legend says the name Thach Han is derived from an underwater rock formation blocking the river's course. Like many other rivers, the Thach Han River flows downstream, depositing alluvial soil and raising the water level to sustain the people. But in this S-shaped land of Vietnam, a land marked by countless battles, few rivers are quite like the Thach Han River as it flows through the heroic land of Quang Tri. For over 81 days and nights in 1972, the entire land of Quang Tri was ablaze with fire, and the river churned and boiled from the enemy's bombs and bullets. The green river and its banks were stained with the blood of heroes who selflessly sacrificed themselves for the Fatherland. This is where they crossed the river to reinforce the troops at the ancient citadel and where they brought the wounded and fallen soldiers back to the north bank. They called this place Ben Vuot (Crossing the River) The old Ben Vuot (Bridge Crossing) was where our soldiers departed, where they returned, and where they fell, merging into the river, lying deep at the bottom, or flowing downstream to the Viet estuary and merging into the vast ocean. Ben Vuot was a place that tested their courage, where they faced death with hearts devoted to their country, writing a tragic epic of the Vietnamese nation, forever remembered. Crossing Ben Vuot, they immersed themselves in bomb rains and bullets, and in the blood of their comrades. A veteran who fought at the Quang Tri citadel and was fortunate enough to cross Ben Vuot recalled: "There were nights when our soldiers crossed the river from the North bank to the South bank, and halfway across, they encountered our soldiers bringing back wounded and fallen soldiers. They only had time to glance at them and quickly caress their comrades. Some of our brothers sacrificed themselves in truly agonizing ways. Wounded and then brought back across the river, they were bombarded by enemy artillery fire—it was like dying twice."The old ferry landing is stained with a stream of red blood.

Hoa Wharf today

A young mother, holding her child's hand, descended step by step to the riverbank to release a floating lantern onto the Thach Han River during a grand memorial service. A gentle breeze seemed to lift the child's tender feet. The child looked up at her mother and asked, "Mom, why is it called Ben Vuot (meaning 'Overcoming the River')?" The mother remained silent. Everyone else was silent too. Perhaps one of those who had fallen at Ben Vuot, or perhaps the father of the young mother, the grandfather of the innocent child, lay beneath the river. I joined the crowd releasing lanterns in the night. Veterans in their red uniforms, their faces weathered by the smoke of nearly 40 years ago, saluted their comrades. People from all walks of life walked and released lanterns, murmuring prayers. They murmured just enough to be heard, fearing they might startle the fallen soldiers in their eternal sleep. They murmured, just enough to express their heartfelt wishes for those who had passed away. The Thach Han River was bathed in a crescent moon tonight. The twinkling stars accompany the floating lanterns, forming silent, slow streams drifting downstream. The entire river shimmers on both banks, shimmering in solemn silence. Faces blur, the moonlight blurs, and the lanterns blur too… The light of the lanterns carries the souls of the soldiers, reminding us that yesterday's tragic events were not only at the Ancient Citadel, but in many other places across this country, stained with the blood of our heroes and our ancestors who built and protected it, always awakening those who are still alive. The story goes that, on the full moon of the seventh lunar month, a veteran bought all the flowers in Quang Tri town, waited until sunset, then quietly went down to the Vuot wharf to light the lanterns and release them into the Thach Han River, reciting a few verses as a message:Oh, boat sailing up the Thach Han River… row gently. My friend still lies at the bottom of the river. At twenty years old, he became waves, gently caressing the shore for thousands of years.Then, as a tradition, every year on the 15th day of the 7th lunar month, the people of the ancient citadel bring flowers to release into the river, praying for the souls of the fallen heroes to find peace. The old Ben Vuot (Ben Vuot Wharf) is now called Ben Hoa (Flower Wharf). Ben Hoa has been built with many steps so that everyone can get close to the water's surface to release floating lanterns, and reach out their hands into the water as if offering them to the heroes. A covered walkway has been erected at Ben Hoa for those who wish to pause for a few minutes to admire the river and contemplate. Both banks of the river are now lush with greenery. The river continues to caress the banks, depositing silt and lulling the heroes into their eternal sleep. The four lines of poetry recited by the veteran years ago are now inscribed and erected at Ben Hoa. Ben Hoa has become a sacred meeting place for the heroes who fell for Quang Tri, connecting with present and future generations. Rest assured, heroes. We and future generations will do our utmost to alleviate the pain, the longing, and the distance where you rest.The Hoa Wharf is now lush and green, reflecting the blue sky..